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North of Hamburg is a small city that used to be one of the most important ports in the Western world. Today, with its handsome architecture, evocative history, and well-regarded historical associations, Lübeck is one of Germany’s lesser-known gems.

Lubeck train station.

Lübeck‘s biggest claim to fame has nothing to do with the powerful Hanseatic League or church spires soaring into the sky. Instead, Lübeck is renowned as the marzipan capital of the world, the headquarters of the Niederegger marzipan company that makes all those thick bars of red foil-wrapped almond delight found for sale around the globe. Though very expensive in overseas markets, at home, it is just another confection, an everyday pleasure in life well appreciated for its quality, sold at everyday prices.

Good thing, too; with the Niederegger boutique practically bursting at the seams with marzipan in every form, visitors stock up with abandon. The onsite Café Niederegger serves a vast array of marzipan cakes and other almond goodies, which go well with the marzipan-infused hot chocolate. The café makes a good place for consolation after fighting off the overwhelming desire to bite into one of the life-size statues—made of marzipan, of course—in the upstairs Marzipan Museum.

Sweet tooth aching with satisfaction, it’s time to enjoy the rest of the city, which was one of the leading members of the Hanseatic League, a confederation of trading ports that banded together to form a maritime nation of sorts to protect and enhance its power and status. The Buddenbrook House is a museum home of a wealthy family of the trading age and is an apt manifestation of the wealth of the times.

Willy Brandt statue in his former home.

Even those with no interest in politics should visit the Willy Brandt House. One of Germany’s most revered and beguiling political figures, Willy Brandt, was born in this building, which now offers visitors insight into the fascinating life of the man who went from refugee living incognito in exile to leader of the German nation.

Within the house is a museum honouring the statesman who challenged Cold War East-West belligerence with a quaint notion known as peaceful coexistence, an option not favoured by the arms-producing nations of the world nor their clients, all of whom fomented a climate of fear while facing the dual threats of harmony and cooperation. Brandt’s efforts to promote better understanding between nations earned him the Nobel Peace Prize in 1971.

One of the most atmospheric experiences in Lübeck is lunch at the Seamen’s Guild, where each shipping company had its table, designated by the very ornate emblems at the entrance to each semi-private seating area. The food is robust, and portions are suitably enormous to satisfy the appetite of big, strong sailors just about to embark on long journeys or just back from months at sea. Size does not replace quality; the fare is as tasty as traditional.

The Visit Lübeck website is a rich source of information about this fascinating city, once one of the wealthiest in the world. Lübeck is an enjoyable day trip easily reached by train from Hamburg and nearby locations with a Germany Pass or Eurail Pass, both of which are available in Australia from Rail Europe.