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Though the glitz and glamour of Tokyo offer visitors a plethora of satisfying urban experiences, the busy Japanese capital represents the antithesis of the relaxed lifestyle on the island of Shikoku, where mental serenity and physical activity coexist amid the densely forested mountains of the least visited of Japan’s four major islands. More than 70% of Japan is mountainous; the percentage for Shikoku is even higher. The island’s warm weather and topographical variety provide a suitable environment for abundant temperate and tropical vegetation. Deep green pines covering the peaks meet palm trees at the coast.

Ohki Beach surf.

Kochi, the largest city on Shikoku’s southern coast, is an ideal base for exploration of the island’s rugged terrain. It is also home to Kochi Castle, one of the best preserved in Japan. The castle is set on a hill with fine views over the area, as typical Japanese castles built for defence purposes (those built in low-lying areas served mainly as imperial administrative centres). Kochi’s main shopping street, Obiyamachidori, is covered by a high awning extending more than one kilometre. Hiromi Market, a traditional precursor to what is known in shopping malls as a food court, makes a lively place to enjoy the local cuisine as the residents do, complete with a wide variety of beer, wines, and spirits to wash down the array of fish, noodles, and vegetables.

Those unfamiliar with Japanese food beyond sushi will be surprised by its quality, variety, and preparation methods. Those who know the cuisine served in the country’s big cities will be introduced to lesser-known foods and cooking styles. However, everything is as fresh as possible throughout the country, especially the fish. Shikoku’s fishermen have been taking to the seas for centuries; by now, the island’s cooks know the best ways to prepare the day’s catch, whatever it may be. One of the island’s most famous dishes is tataki, a filet of bonito seared over a fire of rice straw that imparts a unique flavour to the fish. As is usually the case in Japanese cuisine, and to a greater extent in Japanese culture, excellence and simplicity are appreciated equally.

Kochi Castle.

Shikoku’s Ashizuri-Misaki Peninsula is a three-hour drive from Kochi along a scenic coastal road that passes Ohki Beach, located in Ashizuri Uwakai National Park and a favourite of Japanese surfers. Despite a lack of publicity, surfing is a popular sport in Japan and surfers in Kochi Prefecture, like all residents of Shikoku, welcome foreign visitors with a mix of warm welcome and bemused wonder as to why anyone from another country would have chosen to visit this part of Japan off the beaten track. At the tip of the peninsula is an observation point and the Kongofukuji Buddhist temple, one of 88 around the island that are part of the traditional circuit followed by pilgrims who set out to visit them all―historically on foot, but today also by car. Buddhist pilgrims, who dress in attire specific to their mission, are easily spotted along the roads of Shikoku near the temples. Travellers are welcome to visit temples and shrines to look around. However, some visitors take their involvement to the next level by assuming the life of an ascetic at a shukubo temple lodgings providing accommodation for pilgrims making the rounds of the island. Spartan, it may be, but an overnight shukubo experience serves its purpose well.

In contrast to the mental disengagement it offers, Shikoku is also an excellent place for physical activity.

Buddhist pilgrim at Ashizurimisaki.

Given the pristine terrain and waters, active visitors have several options for enjoying the outdoors. Shikoku’s Shimanto River is the cleanest in Japan; as such, it attracts canoeing and kayaking enthusiasts of all levels of prowess and endurance. Beachside walks, mountain hikes and ocean fishing are all possible. However, the highlight of any athletic pursuit on Shikoku is the Shimanami Kaido, the Ocean Route that takes cyclists across 70km and six bridges linking Shikoku to Japan’s main island of Honshu via a series of smaller islands in the picturesque Inland Sea, which is the location of Miyajima Shrine, one of the most revered in Japan. A well-organised system of bicycle terminals allows cyclists to begin and end at specific points along the route, choosing the length of their ride as they wish. The dedicated cycleways are comprehensive and fully separated from vehicular traffic, allowing for leisurely observation of the beautiful scenery below; regardless of athletic ability, a ride across the bridges is a memorable experience. The islands of the Inland Sea offer various things to see and do, making an itinerary stopping overnight along the way very appealing. One place not to be missed is Setoda on the island of Ikuchijima, which is home to both the Ikuo Hirayama Art Museum and the outstanding Choseizan Kosanji Temple.

The Japan National Tourism Organization (JNTO) offers helpful information for travellers planning visits to Japan, whose popularity as a travel destination has increased dramatically in recent years.