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Greece has thousands of islands within its boundaries, but only a very few of them are overrun with tourists. The rest are appealingly genuine, untainted by plastic souvenir shops or harried locals. When Santorini, Mykonos, and Zakynthos are heaving with summer crowds, there are myriad other islands where daily life goes on with minimal disruption, especially in the winter season, when enjoyment of life as a local is easy and rewarding.

The very impressive Chios Mastic Museum

One of those islands is Chios, a place where visitors can enjoy Greek hospitality and cuisine among actual Greek people rather than fellow foreigners. Located at the far east of the Aegean Sea, very close to Türkiye, Chios was once one of the richest islands in the Mediterranean. That was a long time ago; Chios is now less well-known, yet remains a place well worth visiting for travellers seeking a more natural Greek experience.

Although there are flights available from Athens to the tiny airport on Chios, a perhaps more interesting way to reach the island is from Çesme, the charming Turkish town only 20 minutes away by ferry. The experienced and reliable tour company Tilos Travel can arrange ferry tickets and transfers from hotels on the beautiful Çesme peninsula or directly from Izmir Adnan Menderes airport, which Pegasus Airlines connects to a wide variety of cities across Europe, the Gulf, and Central Asia. The ferry from Çesme arrives in Chios Town, the island’s commercial and administrative capital, from which roads north and south take visitors to the sights, sounds, and scents of the island, the fifth-largest in Greece.

: A typical Pyrgi house

: The Turkish Baths at Chios Castle

As one rolls across the undulating landscapes, the island’s size is appreciated whether heading north to Volissos Castle, inland to the Nea Moni monastery, or south to the area known as Mastichochoria, named for the mastic villages and trees whose fragrant resin has been a source of the island’s wealth for more than 2500 years and remains a valuable component of the local economy. Home to the medieval village of Mesta, the historical town of Pyrgi, famous for the black-and-white patterns of its buildings, and the stunning Chios Mastic Museum, Mastichochoria makes a perfect Mediterranean day out to appreciate the island’s heritage. In contrast to its pastoral surroundings, the Chios Mastic Museum is an ultramodern facility whose interesting exhibits display the history of mastic cultivation on Chios, the only place in the world where mastic trees are endemic. Cited on the UNESCO List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, the production of mastic has been the essence of life in the mastic villages for millennia; the clever but labour-intensive process employed to collect the valuable resin remains almost unchanged to this day. Perched atop a high hill, the museum rises above the surrounding landscape and offers expansive views for those enjoying food and drink from the stylish café’s menu, where friendly service accompanies the tasty fare. A wide variety of mastic-flavoured products is available for purchase, from mastic sweets to mastic liqueur. For those unfamiliar with mastic’s unique flavour, the refreshing taste is especially delicious in ice cream or, in the cooler months, in hot drinks.

: Inside the Chios Mastic Museum

: The medieval village of Mesta

Beyond the museum are Mesta and Pyrgi, both highlights of any visit to Chios. Mesta is a fine example of a medieval castle village completely enclosed by protective walls; its narrow lanes and stone architecture retain a somewhat ethereal atmosphere, as does the spellbinding interior of Taxiarchis church. In contrast to the quietude of Mesta, the exuberance of Pyrgi’s patterned structures makes an impressive feast for the eyes.

Despite the attractions in the countryside, there is no need to rush out of Chios Town, which itself has several attractions. The Turkish Baths in Chios Castle and the Palati Ioustiniani archaeological museum are both a short walk from the ferry port and the town’s central square. Although the shops and restaurants along the waterfront cater primarily to visitors in a tasteful way, a walk a few blocks inland will reveal a number of inexpensive eateries where locals enjoy delicious food at un-touristy prices, another reason to visit this enchanting island where simplicity equals authenticity.