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While Valletta has recently seen a noticeable increase in tourist numbers during the summer season especially, other parts of the island of Malta remain free from crowds and offer an authentic guest experience. For example, the town of Naxxar (NAH-shar) is only a short ride away from Valletta but is worlds away from the busy streets of the capital. Here in Naxxar, a cosmopolitan couple runs one of the most charming small hotels in the country. Effervescent owner Verena is originally from Austria and, along with her Maltese husband Omar, is a delightful presence at Chapel 5, overseeing operations with vivacious flair while maintaining meticulous attention to detail.

Located discreetly down a picturesque lane just a short walk from Naxxar’s main square, Chapel 5 oozes class and style from every honey-coloured wall. Each room is decorated in a different style. Some have private balconies, but all have access to multiple outdoor areas such as courtyards and rooftop terraces reminiscent of a Moroccan riad. Breakfast is served on the ground floor and may be enjoyed anywhere on the property in the various public rooms or outdoors next to one of the pools. The few rooms make it perfect for a full buyout for families or groups of friends who want to privatise the entire property for their use. Imagine having the three pools, the salt room, and the whirlpool all to yourselves.

: One of Chapel 5’s courtyard swimming pools.

: One of Chapel 5’s rooftop terraces.

Chapel 5 can arrange services usually found in much larger properties despite its small size. Here, everything is personalised. Massages, spa treatments, private tours, and unique dining experiences can be arranged. Chapel 5 is one of those unique places where guests would be content to spend their entire holidays within the property and feel they hadn’t missed anything. Indeed, Chapel 5 encapsulates almost everything enjoyable about a visit to Malta.

On Naxxar’s main square, an oval rather than a rectangle, is the enormous church at its centre, literally and figuratively. The exterior is a remarkable example of Mediterranean Baroque architecture, as is Palazzo Parisio, the imposing private residence turned museum that faces the church. Around the oval, sidestreets branch off to Jeff’s Pastizzeria, where Malta’s famous hot snack is served throughout the day. Down another street is the Mediterranean Culinary Academy, where generous chef Andrew leads cooking classes for locals and visitors interested in learning how to prepare different dishes each week.

: The blue room at Chapel 5.

: The beautiful whirlpool room at Chapel 5.

Given the increased awareness of all that Malta offers, many airlines are adding the country to their flight networks. One of the most unusual is Universal Air, a small airline based in Malta with a fleet of Dash 8-400 high-wing aircraft that expanded its network this year, connecting such cities as Nice, Munich, Palermo, and Salerno with flights to its home country. The flight experience is more fun than the more common jet flight, the high wings allowing for excellent viewing of the terrain and sea below out the window in anticipation of the beautiful island experiences awaiting Malta. These experiences can be found on the very well-organised website of the Malta Tourism Authority, which promotes its country with genuine pride. Rightfully so. As seen on the Visit Malta website, there is much to enjoy in this small country, which is big on unique experiences.