CHI YAWARAGU, the artisanal kushiyaki eatery loved for its authentic izakaya vibe, brings fresh wafts of seaside holidays to its atmospheric Upper Lascar Row, Sheung Wan location with two elaborate omakase experiences celebrating seasonal seafood. Now available alongside its signature omakase menu heralding Ping Yuen three-yellow chicken, and acclaimed a la carte, the new seafood parades capture the lighter, jollier mood of spring and early summer.
Hidden amidst antique-market stalls in a neighbourhood that evokes the picturesque alleys of Tokyo and Kyoto, the kushiyaki specialist thrills the senses with expertly grilled yakitori, other meat, seafood and vegetables prepared by a personable culinary team with a skilled hand and a delicate touch of seasoning. The newly launched oceanic journeys offer an attractive alternative to the bounty of the land by showcasing the freshest catches of succulent seafood.
In the not-to-be-missed ocean-fresh dining adventure of Seafood Symphony (HK$480 per person), four seasonal fruits of the sea selected by the chefs according to daily availability join two Appetisers, a Salad, a Steamed Dish, flavoursome Fish Soup and a delicious Dessert. The steamed treat sees a duo of sweet, firm and juicy Hiroshima Oysters. These oysters, known for their exceptional size, boast delicious, fresh, thick and firm meat with a rich flavour. Served alongside kombu, this presentation offers a clean and crisp taste that beautifully captures the essence of the sea.
Among the omakase headliners is Ayu (sweetfish), plucked from the coastal waters of Aichi Prefecture and hailed for its sweet flesh, distinctive texture and watermelon-like aroma. It is expertly grilled with a sprinkle of salt – the ideal way to savour the flavour and succulence of a humble fish that symbolises summer in Japan.
Kani-miso, a delightful combination of crab meat and roe, has earned a special place in the hearts of local gourmands due to its exquisite umami flavour. This culinary masterpiece highlights the use of fresh crabs from Tottori Prefecture, artfully served within their own shells. The natural sweetness and creamy texture of the dish are further enhanced by a captivating golden glow. Similarly presented, Hokkigai (Arctic surf clam) features vibrant red tips, succulent texture and an ocean-infused taste reflecting the chilly northern waters from which it originates.
Teriyaki Eel is another standout, since the team sources fresh local eel rather than the soft, pre-cooked meat that has become a Japanese restaurant staple. Marinated teriyaki-style in soy sauce, mirin and sugar, then skewered and grilled to order, the fresh eel is not only fattier and more tender but also has a satisfying textural bite. Further mouthfeel pleasure comes from a smothering of tangy, fragrant sauce made by boiling eel bones.
For an extended aquatic indulgence, the Tide to Table Sensation Omakase Set (HK$1,280 per person, two-person minimum) is the pinnacle of deluxe dining. It stars whole Lobster or Abalone, Kani-miso and a stellar selection of clams – Surf, Razor and Geoduck – as well as other delicacies according to the seasonal catch of the day. Appetiser, Salad, Fish Soup and Dessert complete the magnificent set, which requires a two-day advance order.
Innovative treats from the sea have always shone at CHI YAWARAGU as subtle, refreshing counterpoints to the yakitori specialities. The exciting a la carte listing includes seafood skewers such as Chicken-skin-wrapped Shrimp (HK$88) and Chicken-skin-wrapped Minced Cuttlefish (HK$78) – reflecting the team’s skill at balancing tastes and textures – as well as Minced Cuttlefish with Shiso Leaf (HK$58). Oysters (HK$88) come from Hiroshima and are famed for their plump, firm flesh. Salmon Rice Balls (HK$68) and Mentaiko Rice Balls (HK$68) are light, healthy choices, pairing the oily goodness of fish with energising carbohydrate.
The “Chef’s Selection 9-Skewer” (HK$780) remains a popular enticement, marrying house signatures with diners’ favourites. It spans Salad, a Stewed Dish, Udon in Chicken Soup – the adored collagen-blessed broth slow-cooked for 72 hours using the skin, bones and meat of flavoursome aged birds – Dessert and Draft Beer along with exquisite skewers demonstrating the culinary team’s prowess with a myriad of meat cuts and seasonal vegetables. Diners opting for this full expression of the chef’s kushiyaki expertise can share any particular dietary requirements upon booking.
The conviviality of the kushiyaki dining culture extends to liberal pours from a stellar drinks list. Introduced at the start of the year, After Four at CHI YAWAGARU Happy Hour Set continues to spread sipping and snacking joy into spring and summer. Any beverage order from 4:00 p.m. to 7:00 p.m. is accompanied by a complimentary quartet of free-flowing treats – Wasabi Raw Octopus, Pickled Yuzu Daikon, Pickled Burdock with Soy Sauce and Grilled Cod Fish Stick.
Alcoholic drinks’ choices move seamlessly from Japanese beer and whisky to a curation of surprisingly fine wines from Europe, bolstered by prestige grape-growers from Japan. The sake selection spotlights niche labels that are a delight to discover, including Hamafukutsuru’s Ito (HK$88/glass; HK$1,280/bottle, 720ml), a refined undiluted sake matured in Sherry oak casks.
Among other rice-wine recommendations, Seiryo Orion Junmaiginjo (HK$780/720ml) unites the prestigious varietals of Yamada Nishiki and Aiyama in a subtly sweet and fruity tipple. The appealing acidity of Suigei Junmai Hattannishiki (HK$800/720ml) can be enjoyed equally hot or chilled, while super-smooth Yamatozakura Junmai Daiginjo (HK$880, 720ml) finishes on hints of nougat.
CHI YAWARAGU is a cool, minimalist hideaway among the colourful antique stalls of Sheung Wan. Ideal for intimate and indulgent rendezvous over rounds of superb grilled skewers and drinks, the 700-sq.-ft space seats 24 people inclusive of a cosy outdoor area. Dominant tones of dark grey and textured black, industrial styling and mood lighting are brightened by decorative odes to Hong Kong culture.
CHI YAWARAGU is located at G/F, 28 Upper Lascar Row, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong, and opens from Tuesday to Sunday (closed Monday) from 4:00 p.m. to 11:00 p.m. For more information, please visit www.chiyawaragu.com/; for reservations, please call or WhatsApp (852) 9448-5988.
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