The old wooden runabout chugged towards our ship, and our purser, appropriately named “Money” (correct name Monerak), handed a young man a briefcase that contained all the necessary documents to enable us to continue our journey, or at least we hoped it would.

Crossing from Cambodia to Vietnam, the border authorities from both countries are stringent on protocol and correct procedures. The runabout slowed but didn’t stop and took off at speed to the main floating office of each country half a kilometre away. We were at the border crossing on the CFM Toum Teav cruise from Siem Reap to HCMC. We had rendezvoused at Tan Chau near Chau Doc to complete the formalities.

Cruising Viet style.

The ship was at anchor as we waited for the return of our documents with the all-clear to proceed. We waited four hours as officials from both countries sorted out a Belgian passenger’s problem with her passport.

This seven-day, eight-night cruise commenced in Koh Chen a bus ride from our meeting hotel the Regency Angkor in Siem Reap, home of the Angkor Wat complex. When on board we were greeted with a welcome cocktail and crew introduction followed by a relaxed dinner, as we followed the Tonle Sap River heading for Kampong Chnang to witness palm tree processing for sugar.  Here, we saw the 72-year-old processing plant owner, Mr Ry, climb a palm tree nearly 30 meters high wearing shorts and thongs – unique and dangerous.

An Ox Cart ride is on the agenda the next day as we bump along on the dray beside the river with local children, following to the Kampong Tralach Pagoda, where there is a ritual blessing by the Senior Monk, a popular procedure for the Khmer people. The blessings are said to bring good fortune and protection. We deviate from the program at sunset when we join the purser, chef, and some of the public for a beer at a roadside cart, taking photos and singing songs.

Phnom Penh, the capital of Cambodia and a city of more than three million people, is on the banks of the Tonle Sap and Mekong rivers and can be distinguished by the brown colour of the Tonle Sap and the blueish Mekong. The Royal Palace, Silver Pagoda, Russian Markets and National Museum of Cambodia are all on the agenda, along with the secondary school, Tuol Sleng (S21), the confronting torture centre of the Khmer Rouge.

Farewell.

The next day a shore excursion to Sa Dec town to visit the bustling market and check out the “Chinaman’s house” featured in “The Lover” novel by Marguerite Duras, subsequently adapted for a movie. Following is a visit to a vast brick and pottery operation and then a rice paper, popped rice, and coconut candy family operation in Vinh Long.

On day seven, it is a small boat trip to Unicorn Island and hear some folk music all aboard the four-seater wooden canoe for a 20-minute journey up the winding tributary covered by water coconut trees being masterly rowed by two beautiful and energetic ladies, nothing short of 75 years. That afternoon, we cruise through the man-made Cho Gao Canal to the Vam Co Dong River, leading to the Saigon River to HCMC.

During the cruise, we had several impromptu evening concerts on the top deck with the passengers and crew singing their national songs. “It certainly brought everyone together to make a memorable cruise”, commented one of the Belgian passengers who, with his wife, contributed to a splendid rock and roll dancing exhibition.

The Captain’s Farewell dinner on the final night was a highlight, where the crew sang and said their final farewells.

The boutique-size 10-berth CFM Toum Teav riverboat reflects a bygone era of traditional river cruising in harmony with historic Khmer culture.  Built of teak with the safety of a steel hull, passengers relax in privacy, comfort and safety with delicious meals and friendly service. Features include cosy air-conditioned double cabins with private en-suite bathrooms, large lounge areas, panoramic viewing and strolling spaces, and serviced bar-restaurant.

CF Mekong River Cruises is the longest-operating cruise line on the Mekong. It operates five ships and is very competitively priced.

Check out its New Discovery Tour on Toum Tiou 2.

Written by John Savage aboard the TT1

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