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Whether running an Alpine marathon or sipping chilli tequila, Bern gets the blood pumping. The surprising capital of Switzerland is often overlooked for overnight stays on a Swiss itinerary, yet this city, rich in culture and dramatically situated on the rise above the Aare River, offers much to those who take a few days to get to know its charms. Bern’s small size belies its lively character; a youthful population keeps the city unexpectedly active, especially this week when Bern hosts EuroGames 2023, a sports competition and cultural festival welcoming LGBTQI participants and their supporters and culminating in BernPride, celebrated this year on 29 July.

Bellevue Palace lobby lounge

The gateway to the eponymous Bernese Oberland, Bern’s scenic setting is one of its biggest drawcards. The snowcapped Alps are never out of sight and provide a spectacular backdrop to the city. Bern’s Old Town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is a trip back to medieval times, with the past most definitely part of the present. Long ago, there were thousands of beautiful towns like this across Europe; few are left today. Most evocative of these is Kramgasse, a street whose intricately detailed fountains down the middle are far more elegant traffic calmers than speedbumps could ever be. Bern’s most prominent sight, the Zytglogge clock tower, is open for public and private tours to see the clock’s workings; they also provide a lovely panorama of the Bern town centre and the mountains beyond. The Bern Museum of Fine Arts, the Swiss Parliament building, and the farmers’ market in Parliament Square are among other points of interest, though it is the bears that people flock to see. Bears are revered in Switzerland as living symbols of the nation. BärenPark at the edge of Bern’s Old Town is a spacious natural enclosure along the bank of the river where the ursine residents can swim at their leisure, just as the city’s human inhabitants do. Away from the bear enclosure, of course.

Further into the outskirts of Bern is the Zentrum Paul Klee, an artspace dedicated to this visionary Swiss artist whose simple use of lines and colours has engendered a loyal following. Similarly stimulating for the mind is a visit to the Albert Einstein Museum, housed in one of the most beautiful buildings in the city. There is also the Einstein House, which was the residence of the scientific genius during his time in Bern from 1903 to 1905.

Bellevue Palace Suite 220 living room

Owned by the Swiss government and serving as the official guesthouse for royalty, heads of state, and other VIP visitors to the Swiss capital, Hotel Bellevue Palace is undoubtedly an establishment worthy of its name. Located in the same architectural ensemble as the massive Bundeshaus Swiss Parliament building and set on a bluff with commanding views of the Aare River and the snowcapped Swiss Alps beyond, this member of the exclusive Michel Reybier Hospitality group provides accommodation of the highest level and superb culinary experiences at the most prestigious address in town. The amiable staff certainly add to the enjoyment of a stay here, their smiles and good humour unwavering, their willingness to help unlimited.

As a prelude to dinner in VUE, Bellevue Palace’s chic brasserie, or its lovely summer terrace, the hotel’s Gin Bar serves a variety of unique cocktails made with rare and valuable gins from around the world (including Switzerland’s own) under the impressive glass ceiling of Le Lobby lounge. Inspiring was the recent opening of Noumi, a sleek bar and grill where a rotating array of seasonal drinks with names such as The Horny Casimir (with chilli tequila), Pink Porn, and Purple Haze (this one concocted with cannabis oil) complement a cosmopolitan menu of innovative dishes.

Bern Museum and the Alps beyond

As is common in historical properties, Bellevue Palace’s rooms and suites vary in size and configuration. The newly renovated suites with separate living rooms bring a fresh take on Swiss luxury accommodation and convey a sense of a private home rather than a hotel room. Corner suite 220 is in a prime position with views of the river, Alps, and Parliament Building. Unusually, Bellevue Palace is one of the few hotels in Europe with PowerPoint presentations for Australian electrical devices. Guests staying at Bellevue Palace are given complimentary transport cards on arrival, valid for the duration of their stays, to allow them to see the city without a second thought to fare zones or payment.

Almost all visitors to Bern arrive by rail. Direct trains departing Zurich Airport reach Bern in about 75 minutes. For carefree travel on a national scale, the Swiss Travel Pass allows unlimited rail travel across the country and includes urban transport and entry into many museums across Switzerland. These are available online through the Rail Europe website. More information about Bern’s attractions and activities can be found on the informative Bern Tourism website.