Spring Climbing Season Forecast

Alpha, Delta, Omicron. For more than two years the coronavirus pandemic has disrupted international mountaineering, closing or limiting access to popular, challenging mountains worldwide. Where high-climbers were permitted to go they faced tough COVID-19 protocols to prevent spreading the disease in the region and within their climbing group. Often, those precautions worked, but not always.
It’s unclear what COVID-19 or its variants will mean for the upcoming spring climbing season. But experts are making predictions based on their experience and observations.
Lukas Furtenbach, the owner of Furtenbach Adventures, says he shouldn`t have run expeditions on Mount Everest last spring when few people were vaccinated. “Now, with all staff and clients vaccinated I have fewer concerns. Testing and vaccination. That’s our road back to business,” he said.
Like most things, high climbs in the Himalayas are still unclear. Last year Mount Everest hit record permit numbers but it happened very late. Climbing rules relating to COVID-19 were unclear and responsible expedition organizers took it upon themselves to research and follow best practices – social distancing, hygiene, vaccinations – for their groups and staff.
Expect much of the same for Nepal in 2022. Responsible expedition organizers will take precautions and enforce rules to protect their climbers and the local community. Some low-cost operators will not.
Mark Gunlogson of Mountain Madness says everything is a moving target due to travel restrictions and spikes in COVID-19 cases. “The only real thing to expect is to be ready for the unexpected. Where we have had climbers go on international trips we’ve had good results with our trips and people not getting COVID-19,” he said.
Gordon Janow, the co-founder of Alpine Ascents, agrees climbers and trekkers should expect an everchanging set of rules and entry requirements. “We really haven’t seen much in the way of COVID-19-related evacuations this winter, so perhaps the stringent guidelines helped. I think for those who travel is a lifestyle, they will continue to do so. Those who can sit back and push a climb like Mount Everest off another year will likely do that,” he said.
Ed Viesturs, the legendary mountaineer and member of Global Rescue’s Mountain Advisory Council, says COVID-19 protocols are a challenge but seems to be working. “I just came off of the Antarctic continent from climbing Vinson. It’s been an interesting journey to get to Chile. It’s one of the strictest countries to allow incoming international travel. They require vaccinations plus a PCR test once you arrive,” he said.
Viesturs noted the expedition outfitter also employed tough COVID-19 protocols. “Everyone had to add an additional 5 days of travel simply to deal with the required testing. It’s a hassle for sure, but it ensures that once here we can maintain a sort of COVID-19-free bubble,” he said.
Climbers should vaccinate for Nepal. It makes the entry requirements far easier. Nepal currently requires unvaccinated travellers to quarantine for 10 days on arrival, negative test and will need prior approval to travel. Vaccinated climbers can obtain a visa on arrival, along with negative test 72 hours prior to departure. Travellers need to keep a close eye on these rules because they frequently change at short notice.
2022 will be wide open on Mount Everest if 2021 is anything to go by. There won’t be any limitations on group size. Expect record permits distributed with no enforced rules. Climbers should go with expedition organizers who take COVID-19 precautions seriously.
Janow says testing is essential. “Self-tests are good for climbers to carry, and expedition operators should have them as well. These were effective for us last year when we had no clients test positive all season,” he said.
Viesturs is keeping his eyes open. “It’ll be interesting to see what countries like Nepal, Pakistan and China require for entry this spring. Outfitters will instigate their own protocols to protect their clients as well as their business operations,” he said.
Dan Stretch is a Global Rescue Operations Manager and is based in Nepal during the Mount Everest climbing seasons. He has coordinated hundreds of evacuations and crisis response operations. He graduated from the University of Hertfordshire with a BS in Paramedic Science.
By Dan Stretch