Set along the banks of the River of Kings, Baan Phraya begins a new chapter in its distinguished culinary story. Once the residence of Phraya Mahai Savan and Khunying Luean Mahai Savan, the century-old house was known for its gracious gatherings, where Thai nobility and visiting dignitaries were welcomed with thoughtful hospitality and refined home-cooked feasts. Their warmth, generosity and deep appreciation of Thai cuisine shaped the character of the residence, a spirit that continues to define Baan Phraya today.
In 1986, several rooms of the residence were transformed by Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok into Thailand’s first Thai Cooking School, preserving original recipes and techniques while ushering in a new era of cultural exchange. Since then, the house has been thoughtfully restored, with its architectural charm from the reign of King Rama V carefully maintained. Today, Baan Phraya stands as a living testament to Thai heritage, its original teakwood and intricate fretwork reflecting the stories and traditions that have guided it through generations.
At the heart of its revival is Chef Phatchara ‘Pom’ Pirapak, whose culinary philosophy mirrors the legacy of the house itself. Like Khunying Luean before her, Chef Pom is known for her precise craftsmanship and intuitive understanding of Thai flavours. She takes on the role of cultural custodian, reviving long-lost regional with a contemporary lightness. Her cooking respects traditional methods, from charcoal grilling and mortar pounding to the delicate art of dok jok craftsmanship, while presenting each dish with a sense of modernity.
Every plate is crafted with balance in mind, guided by appearance, aroma, taste, and emotion. The menu reflects the enduring identity of Thai cuisine, celebrating aromatic herbs, distinctive cooking techniques, and the subtle interplay of sour, salty, and sweet.
Chef Pom’s commitment to authenticity is matched by her mindful approach to sustainability. Ingredients are sourced from trusted local producers across Thailand, from the northern highlands of Chiang Mai to small community farms. A small organic garden beside the house offers fresh herbs and young shoots, some of which she incorporates into her dishes for a naturally vibrant touch.
Among her signature dishes is a refined take on Tom Kha, with Prachuap Khiri Khan squid stuffed with young coconut and lightly grilled over charcoal. The galangal-infused broth, enriched with herbs from the house’s organic garden, is aromatic, creamy and comforting. Another highlight is the Grilled Surat Thani River Prawn, halved and grilled to reveal its natural sweetness, served with a tangy tamarind-chilli sauce and a rich tomalley reduction. Pickled watermelon rind, coloured with turmeric and roselle adds brightness.
Drawing inspiration from the residence’s past as Thailand’s first cooking school, the restaurant has been reimagined as an intimate setting for Chef Pom’s craft, where the connection between kitchen and table is central to the experience. Intricate fretwork, original architectural details and subtle references to the Vanda orchid, a symbol found in Phraya Mahai Savan’s writings on Thai plant decoration, honour the house’s heritage with a contemporary touch and set the tone for the guest journey that follows.
The experience begins on the terrace, where guests are welcomed with Mha Hor, Thai Honeycomb Biscuits (Khanom Dok Jok). Mha Hor brings together tangy pineapple with caramelised pickled radish and roasted peanuts for a perfectly balanced bite. The Thai Honeycomb Biscuit, lightly scented with somsa, is paired with a tamarind and chilli paste for savoury depth, while the kombucha provides a refreshing counterpoint. A small palate refresher of savoury ice vine leaves with roasted rice and coriander and a glass of kombucha follow in the open kitchen before guests are guided to their seats for dinner.
Baan Phraya welcomes a new generation of guests with the same spirit that once defined the home: heartfelt service, refined Thai home cooking, and respect for the traditions. A place where culinary heritage is preserved, craft is valued, and every meal allows for an appreciation of the richness of Thai culture.
Opening Hours:
Dinner: 6 – 11pm (9pm last order)
Fridays to Tuesdays
