Bhutan has always held a special place in my heart. Nestled high in the Himalayas between two giants, India and China, this tiny kingdom of fewer than 800,000 people stands apart from the modern world. For many travellers, Bhutan represents not just a destination, but a philosophy of life. It is a country where Gross National Happiness is prioritised over Gross Domestic Product, and where the pulse of life remains steady, unhurried, and deeply connected to the natural world.
From my home base in Bangkok, it is surprisingly straightforward to reach Bhutan. Direct flights from Drukair (Royal Bhutan Airlines) and Bhutan Airlines connect the Thai capital with Paro, Bhutan’s only international airport. The flight itself is spectacular; on a clear day, the views of the Himalayas are breathtaking, with glimpses of Everest, Kangchenjunga, and Bhutan’s sacred peaks. Landing at Paro is legendary among pilots; surrounded by towering mountains, it is considered one of the most challenging airports in the world. For travellers, though, the thrill of arrival perfectly sets the tone for an unforgettable journey.
A Philosophy That Shapes a Nation
Bhutan is unique in measuring progress with Gross National Happiness (GNH), a philosophy introduced by the Fourth King, Jigme Singye Wangchuck. It rests on four pillars: sustainable development, environmental conservation, cultural preservation, and good governance. This holistic approach influences everything from how cities grow to how tourism is managed.
The capital, Thimphu, is perhaps the most charming example of this balance. It is one of the few capitals in the world without a traffic light; instead, white-gloved police officers direct traffic at its busiest junction. Dzongs, majestic fortress-monasteries, dominate skylines, while crimson-robed monks mingle with office workers in ghos and kiras, the national dress. The air feels cleaner, the pace calmer, and the sense of continuity stronger than almost anywhere else I have travelled.
Tourist Arrivals: Small Numbers, Big Vision
Bhutan remains one of the world’s most exclusive travel destinations. In 2024, the country welcomed just over 103,000 visitors, a fraction of the millions who crowd into neighbouring Himalayan nations. Of these arrivals, about 70% came from just five markets:
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India (by far the most significant source)
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United States
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China
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United Kingdom
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Germany
These figures reveal Bhutan’s reliance on regional tourism and its growing appeal among Western travellers seeking something more authentic and mindful.
Yet unlike other countries, Bhutan has no desire to chase record numbers. The government is transparent: there is no mass tourism or overtourism. Instead, Bhutan follows a “High Value, Low Volume” policy. This model, supported by a Sustainable Development Fee, deliberately limits the number of visitors and ensures that tourism revenue supports conservation and community well-being. The daily fee was recently reduced to US$100 through 2027, making Bhutan more accessible while still safeguarding its exclusivity.
This careful strategy is designed to avoid the fate of many popular destinations, where uncontrolled growth has led to environmental degradation, cultural dilution, and community resentment. In Bhutan, tourism is not an industry to be maximised but a tool to preserve heritage, protect nature, and improve citizens’ quality of life.
A Timeless Landscape
To step into Bhutan is to enter a land where the modern world has arrived slowly and selectively. Television only appeared in 1999, and mobile phones in the early 2000s. That delay has helped preserve a sense of timelessness.
Prayer flags flutter on mountain ridges. Monasteries cling to cliff sides, none more iconic than Taktsang (Tiger’s Nest Monastery), perched dramatically 900 metres above the Paro Valley. It is a pilgrimage for Bhutanese and visitors alike, reached by a demanding hike that rewards with sweeping views and profound serenity.
Elsewhere, valleys like Phobjikha are sanctuaries for black-necked cranes, whose winter migration is celebrated with colourful festivals blending conservation with culture. The Bumthang region, with its ancient temples and apple orchards, offers glimpses of Bhutan’s spiritual core. And across the country, dzongs such as Punakha and Trongsa are administrative centres and living monasteries, symbols of Bhutan’s enduring harmony between the secular and the sacred.
The People, Their Warmth and a Place to Stay
Bhutanese people may initially appear more reserved than their Thai neighbours, but their warmth quickly shines through. There is a deep sense of pride in their culture and an openness to sharing it. National dress is worn for ceremonies and everyday life, reinforcing identity in an era of globalisation.
The cuisine reflects the Bhutanese spirit—simple, hearty, and fiery. Ema datshi, a dish of chillies and cheese, is eaten daily, its heat offset by comforting red rice and butter tea. Dining in Bhutan is as much about nourishment as it is about continuity, with recipes handed down through generations.
In many ways, Bhutan feels like a country out of time. Modernity has touched its borders, yet the kingdom has chosen carefully what to let in. It is not a museum, Wi-Fi exists, young people study abroad, and new hotels open every year, but Bhutan resists the reckless rush of globalisation.
Its mountains may be rugged, but its path is deliberate. Tourism will grow, but not at the expense of culture or nature. Visitors will arrive, but not in unmanageable swarms. This is Bhutan’s lesson to the world: development must not mean destruction, and happiness can be a national goal.
For the traveller, Bhutan offers not just scenery but perspective. Its valleys and dzongs are magnificent, but its philosophy of living gently and mindfully lingers longest.
If You Go: Practical Travel Tips
- Airlines: Drukair (Royal Bhutan Airlines) and Bhutan Airlines operate flights into Paro International Airport, connecting with Bangkok, Delhi, Kathmandu, and Singapore, among other hubs.
- Visa: All international visitors (except Indian nationals) must book travel through a licensed Bhutanese tour operator and pay the Sustainable Development Fee of US$100 per person per night (until 2027).
- Best Seasons: March–May (spring blooms) and September–November (clear skies, festival season) are the most popular times. Winter (December–February) is cold but offers crisp skies and fewer visitors; summer (June–August) brings monsoon rains but lush greenery.
- Stay: For authenticity and luxury in Paro, Zhiwa Ling Heritage is my favourite. It is a handcrafted hotel that feels like part of Bhutan’s cultural landscape. Thimphu’s modern sister property, Zhiwa Ling Ascent, offers eco-friendly design and sweeping city views.
- Dress & Culture: Modest dress is appreciated, especially when visiting monasteries and dzongs. Respect local customs; photography inside temples is often restricted.
- Pace: Travel here is unhurried. Distances may look short on a map, but winding mountain roads mean journeys take time. This is part of Bhutan’s charm: slowing down.
By Andrew J Wood
BIO
A Yorkshireman by birth and a Bangkokian by choice, Andrew J Wood has been exploring Southeast Asia’s hospitality and culinary landscapes since 1991. A seasoned travel writer and hotel reviewer, Andrew brings old-school charm and a deep affection for gracious service to every piece he pens. For him, the perfect Sunday is slow, savoured, and best enjoyed with dessert.
