Today we leave the hotel early and head south by car on a three-hour drive to Hualien on the east coast of Taiwan. It feels good to know that we will be seeing more of the country, and also getting away from the city for a couple of days. Our guide assures us that we will feel close to nature and be able to “taste the air”. Hualien is the largest county in Taiwan, but due to its mountainous terrain it has one of the lowest populations (7%) in the country. And it doesn’t take long to understand just that as we get closer and feel the mountains enclosing around us. We travel through a series of tunnels cutting our way through the mountains. It’s a scenic journey with brief stretches of lovely beaches and a blue Pacific Ocean.
We begin by exploring the Taroko National Park. Our guide tells us we have to stop so he can collect hard hats for us due to falling rocks. We think he is joking – he isn’t – and we wonder, can this be safe!! He says it is a safety precaution and because of the weathering of the rocks, a natural phenomenon of little rockfalls could happen but assures us it won’t be today!
Taroko National Park
The Taroko Gorge just blows us away as we our way along the Swallow Grotto Trail. The trail is easy to walk, and you can’t help but wonder how nature can deliver such beauty. The rock layers are mostly marble and the gorge was formed after the river cut through the layers of marble for millions of years.
We head back to our driver – hats in hand and no falling rocks to be seen, our guide was right. We move on to walk the Shakadang Trail – a round trip of 3km. The trail is winding and after the first curve we come upon a crystal-clear turquoise blue pool of water below a shear cliff. Surrounding the water are enormous boulders and we dream of sunbaking on these and diving into the clear water. Unfortunately, the drop from where we are standing would make getting down there impossible – and besides – it’s now starting to rain for the first time on our trip!
Snail and Octopus Silent Manor
Tonight, we are staying in an eco-style boutique hotel, the Silence Manor, in the township of Ruisui. It feels like we are in the middle of nowhere, surrounded by lush gardens, fruit trees and lofty mountains.
The rooms are large, light and warm, with the added bonus of a deep, hot spring bath in the bathroom – very Zen. Definitely had to fill that up.
Dinner is at the hotel and is famed for its presentation (there is no menu) and the use of ingredients from the hotel’s garden. We weren’t disappointed – the dishes were fantastic, such beautiful flavours, it was four courses of heaven.
Silence Manor outside
Up bright and early, some had a swim in the pool, before a simple but healthy breakfast.
Tomorrow we explore more of Hualien county.
The writer was a guest of the Taiwan Tourism Bureau/Taiwan Visitors Association
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